The west is the sheltered side. Between November and April the lagoon is reliably flat, which is why families and swimmers end up here and the kitesurfers do not.
What it costs
Resort nights start around 7500 rupees and climb steeply. Flic en Flac itself has cheaper self-catering apartments a street back from the beach.
Who it suits
Anyone who wants to swim rather than watch the sea, and anyone who cares about sunsets. This coast has them and the east does not.